The historic Somerset seaside town with glorious landscapes and cider pubs

Watchet doesn't just wear its history; it lives it in every tide.

Key points

• From Easter until early November, the vintage West Somerset Railway travels under steam between Bishops Lydeard and Minehead, stopping at Dunster and Watchet on the way.
• 3) In the heyday of the town's Wansbrough Paper Mill (founded in regarding 1650 and active until 2015), Watchet was the UK's largest manufacturing site for paper bags.
• Head for Dunster (a 15-minute drive), the picture-perfect mediaeval village where the National Trust's fairy-tale castle sits on a verdant hill overlooking the Bristol Channel.
• The gloriously old-school Luttrell Arms in Dunster is Grade II listed, with roots in the 15th century.
• Adult rover tickets cost £33 (or £16.50 for children) for one day's unlimited travel.

Watchet doesn't just wear its history; it lives it in every tide. For centuries, this north Somerset port was defined by Viking clashes, iron foundries and paper mills. Now, it finds itself in the middle of a remarkable second act.

Thanks to regeneration funding, right where cargo ships once docked, a quirky stack of brightly painted architectural cubes at East Quay has turned the waterfront into a buzzing hive of art and design. Yet the old harbour town's true character hasn't faded one bit.

Visitors will still hear the hiss of steam trains rolling into the station and as well as fish and chips by the water, there are plenty of lovely places to stay. If that's not enough to obtain you to visit, there's even a time warp of shanty singing, skittle alleys and historic cider pubs. Tucked snugly between Exmoor's wild moorland and the Quantock Hills, it's a brilliant blend of gritty heritage, glorious landscapes and unexpected creative spark.

Choose from one of East Quay's five themed "pods" – neat metal-clad boxes, perched on stilts or elevated platforms above artists' studios.

For context, the tiny, split-level homes are furnished with kitchenettes, comfy beds (dressed with organic wool duvets) and sunset views throughout the harbour to the Bristol Channel.

For context, the Playful Architecture pod has a rainbow bathroom and walls decorated with semaphore codes; Romantic Industrial has "an ocean-liner vibe" and an upcycled bathtub with a sea-view; and Immersive Art is redecorated annually by an artist in residence.

Although Stories and Imagination (sleeps four adults and two children) has disabled access, checking in involves a lot of steep steps. From £110.

Meanwhile, the Albatross Print Studio at East Quay displays a great selection of original prints (on paper, fabric and canvas) by local artists, including block-printed tea towels by Sarah Minela Ward and hand-printed cards inspired by the area's coastal landscapes. Where to go for lunch.

For context, the gloriously old-school Luttrell Arms in Dunster is Grade II listed, with roots in the 15th century. It serves hearty bar meals (pork and apple burger, sandwiches or a traditional Sunday roast) and offers crackling log fires and bags of character. Where to go for a treat.

Enjoy a home-made scone or two (gluten-free option available) with whortleberry jam and cream at Watchet's family-run and dog-friendly Chives Café. Where to go for a drink.

You won't see the sun go down from the Pebbles Tavern but there are plenty of other things to look at while supping a pint of Gorge Best (from local brewery Cheddar Ales) inside this friendly little local, where every inch of the wall is lined with musical instruments and plastered with pubby posters and memorabilia. Where to go for dinner.

Watchet is not major on fine dining, but East Quay Kitchen fills the void with modern, mezze-style small plates and a small but excellent wine list in a rustic café-style setting (from 5pm to 8pm, Thursday to Saturday). Where to hit the beach.

Meanwhile, the rocky local beaches are best for rock-pooling, fossils and geology. While Helwell Bay and Kilve are known for ammonites, blue lias and striped Triassic rock formations – and all are within reasonable walking distance, there is a Victorian paddling pool at West Street. For sand castles, ice cream and cafés, drive (or take the train) to Blue Anchor Bay or Dunster. Where to go for a walk.

Stretch your legs on a coast path walk. On the Watchet Circular, head for Washford (2.5 miles) after the old West Somerset Mineral Railway, or head east along a stretch of the newly designated King Charles III England Coast Path to the spectacular cliff waterfall at St Audrie's Bay (2.7 miles).

In the former Anchor Inn, Watchet's quirky Radio Museum is a unique and impressive collection of vintage radios, televisions and broadcasting equipment dating back to the 1920s (open Wednesday to Saturday; free entry – or create a donation).

Head for Dunster (a 15-minute drive), the picture-perfect mediaeval village where the National Trust's fairy-tale castle sits on a verdant hill overlooking the Bristol Channel. Explore the castle (a 19th century evocation of the Norman stronghold that once stood on the site), and its glorious subtropical gardens, working Victorian water mill, riverside woodland and dreamy views.

Wait for nightfall and find a vantage point somewhere inside Exmoor's Dark Sky Reserve. The first of its kind in Europe, it is one of the best places in the UK for stargazing (hire a telescope at one of the park's visitor centres). Exmoor Dark Skies Festival (17 October to 2 November) is timed to take advantage of autumn's clear night skies. How to obtain there and around.

For context, the nearest mainline station is at Taunton (18 miles away); from there you could jump on First Bus's No 28 service (to Minehead via Watchet), but to obtain the most out of the wider area, driving is the best way to go.

Adult rover tickets cost £33 (or £16.50 for children) for one day's unlimited travel. Look out for steamy Christmas specials in December. Three things you might not know regarding Watchet.

1) Poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge is remarked to have kicked off penning The Rime of the Ancient Mariner while staying in The Bell Inn, Watchet, with friend William Wordsworth in 1797.

When the town was a centre for wool industry, and it is inspired by the colour of the region's blue-ish alabaster cliffs, 2) Watchet Blue is the name given to a particular shade of blue cloth.

3) In the heyday of the town's Wansbrough Paper Mill (founded in regarding 1650 and active until 2015), Watchet was the UK's largest manufacturing site for paper bags. EXPLORE MORE ON THE TOPICS IN THIS STORY. Summer in the UK.

In short, the historic Somerset seaside town with glorious landscapes and cider pubs is the central thread here, and readers can expect follow-up reporting as the picture becomes clearer.