France hits Shein and Temu with fast fashion fees

As the administration tries to curb sales of cheap clothing sold by e-commerce sites, france has began imposing fees on fast fashion items which could reach almost €20 per garment by 2030.

Key points

• Though the cap remains at 50% of the product's pre-tax cost, the levy could reach up to €19.50 (£16.71/$22.60) per item by 2030.
• China's commerce ministry has described the French law as discriminatory and a trade barrier, saying it could violate World Trade Organization (WTO) principles.
• The levy, which came into force on Tuesday, follows a new law passed in June to regulate so-called "ultra-fast fashion" firms such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress.
• The BBC has contacted Shein, Temu and AliExpress with a request to comment.
• French minister Mathieu Lefevre remarked the "harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion" on the environment and economy were "well known".

Meanwhile, the levy, which came into force on Tuesday, follows a new law passed in June to regulate so-called "ultra-fast fashion" firms such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress.

Notably, the e-commerce giants, known for selling sizeable volumes of cheap apparel, have been criticised by French office-holders for driving a surge in ultra-fast fashion.

In July, Lefevre's office remarked the levy would not apply to retailers such as H&M or Zara, prompting some to say that the measure appeared to spare European businesses.

Under the legislation, ultra-fast fashion will be determined according to two factors: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase cost.

Meanwhile, the per-item fee will vary on a set scale according to how each product scores on both these standards.

For 2026, the charges range from a €0.50 (£0.43) levy on underwear to €2 (£1.71) for T-shirts, to €9 (£7.71) for jeans and €12 (£10.28) for a jacket.

Notably, the fees come after Shein, a fast fashion retailer founded in China and headquartered in Singapore, was valued at $26.2bn (£19.3bn) on its first day of public trading on the stock market in Hong Kong.

For context, the firm was once estimated to be worth almost $100bn, but has faced heated competition, trade tensions and questions over the ethics of its supply chain.

Meanwhile, the BBC has contacted Shein, Temu and AliExpress with a request to comment.

Shein previously informed the BBC that the impact of legislation targeting ultra-fast fashion would "worsen the purchasing power of French consumers, at a time when they are already feeling the impact of the cost-of-living crisis".

Temu, a Chinese-owned e-commerce firm, has additionally been widely criticised by politicians in the UK and US alike.

For context, a spokesperson for Temu previously informed the BBC that the brand "acknowledges the important environmental concerns addressed by the proposed French legislation", and argued that it does not operate as a fast fashion business since it is a marketplace and does not manufacture its own products.

Taken together, the developments around france hits Shein and Temu with fast fashion fees point to a situation that is still moving, and the coming days should bring more clarity.