Hosa: Playful South Indian on a plate

South Indian cuisine has always been far more diverse than the familiar roster of dosas, idlis and vadas.

Key points

• The Hyderabad menu takes this idea further, drawing on flavours associated with Andhra and Telangana and, more broadly, Telugu-speaking homes.
• Hosa, which means 'new' in Kannada, explores South Indian cuisine beyond the projected, pairing its food with tropical-inspired cocktails and an extensive wine list.
• The chef's approach is rooted in the idea that there is no single definition of authentic South Indian food.
• Among the non-vegetarian small plates, Naranga Chicken is succulent, with the sweetness and gentle heat of the orange-chilli sauce making it particularly moreish.
• The beverage programme, crafted by EHV International's head of bars Varun Sharma, follows a similar regional inspiration.

South Indian cuisine has always been far more diverse than the familiar roster of dosas, idlis and vadas. At Hosa, that diversity gets a contemporary expression, with regional flavours, lesser-known combinations and familiar ingredients finding new forms. After its success in Goa and Gurugram, EHV International has brought Hosa to Hyderabad, opening at The Loft, RMZ Nexity.

Hosa, which means 'new' in Kannada, explores South Indian cuisine beyond the projected, pairing its food with tropical-inspired cocktails and an extensive wine list. "The concept is the same as when we opened in Goa. We wanted to have a good South Indian restaurant. Plenty of residents call it 'modern South Indian', but for me, modern is not really modern since every day we evolve and transform ourselves. Meanwhile, the most significant thing for us is to provide individuals the right flavours, " states Brand Chef Harish Rao. Beyond the food, Hosa's interiors reinterpret the brand's coastal origins, combining warmth and playfulness with a polished, contemporary aesthetic.

That philosophy is evident in the small plates. Cracked Potatoes, served with cauliflower masiyal and hibiscus dust, offer a playful interpretation of aloo gobi sabzi. Kobbari 65 is even more unexpected – coconut malai is fried and paired with coconut-lime foam, creating a savoury, creamy bite with a gentle tang. Podi Vattayappam is another visual and textural delight, with ghee podi coating idli-shaped pieces resembling finger chips. Mokkajonna Kebab, a corn fritter served with cream cheese and tomato salsa, adds another layer of playful reinterpretation.

Notably, the chef's approach is rooted in the idea that there is no single definition of authentic South Indian food. "We are additionally highly honest in what we do. We are not trying to impress anyone; we are being particularly honest with our food. There is additionally nothing called absolute authenticity as every home has its own way of cooking, " he shares.

For context, the Hyderabad menu takes this idea further, drawing on flavours associated with Andhra and Telangana and, more broadly, Telugu-speaking homes. One of the highlights is Paper Fish Curry. Inspired by the French technique of Poisson Papillote, Chef Harish wraps a fish curry in paper, transforming its presentation while keeping its flavour profile rooted in the region. "I thought, when the French can serve fish this way, why can't I serve my curry in paper?" he explains.

Among the non-vegetarian small plates, Naranga Chicken is succulent, with the sweetness and gentle heat of the orange-chilli sauce making it particularly moreish. Mutton Kebab takes a less familiar route, with juicy kebabs served over a silky raw mango and chickpea mousse. Toddy Shop Prawns bring a robust, spicy character that works especially well alongside the cocktails.

One of the more indulgent plates is Kari Dosa. It reimagines a South Indian staple with minced mutton keema, bone marrow hollandaise and a sunny-side-up egg over a dosa. Taking a bite of all the elements together brings the crispness of the dosa, richness of the keema and hollandaise, and the softness of the egg yolk into one indulgent mouthful. Another favourite was the Garelu Chicken Curry, where comforting vadas soak up a spicy chicken curry, making every bite deeply satisfying.

In practice, the beverage programme, crafted by EHV International's head of bars Varun Sharma, follows a similar regional inspiration. Drawing on South Indian ingredients and flavours, the cocktails include the sparkling Hosa 75, refreshing Rum Kokum Cola, aromatic Panakam and bold Black Pepper Penicillin. House-made infusions and tropical influences offer the drinks a playful character while keeping them well suited to the food.

Desserts continue the South Indian narrative. While the Kapi Tres Leches gives the classic dessert a distinctly South Indian treatment through coffee, curry Leaf Ice Cream with curry leaf oil is decadent yet surprisingly balanced. Coconut Snow makes for a lighter yet memorable finish, bringing together coconut ice cream, jasmine granita and almond crumble.

With its mix of regional influences, playful reinterpretations and familiar flavours presented in unexpected ways, Hosa Hyderabad makes a case for looking at South Indian cuisine beyond the usual fare without losing sight of what makes it comforting in the first place.

Taken together, the developments around hosa: Playful South Indian on a plate point to a situation that is still moving, and the coming days should bring more clarity.