Madras Day: Three actors share their favourite Chennai food memories

Madras Day: Three actors share their favourite Chennai food memories For Madras Day, Nalini Nair, Nassar and Pasupathy dig into their food memories – from beloved old eateries and childhood treats to the tastes that continue to bring Chennai home.

Key points

• Janata Meal is packed in boxes in hygenic way inside Railway Catering Unit ai Erode Railway Station Photo Credit: GOVARTHAN M.
• After making his Tamil film debut as Kothala Thevar in Kamal Haasan's Virumaandi, Pasupathy established himself as an actor of remarkable range and depth.
• An old photograph of Buhari Hotel on Anna Salai Photo Credit: RAGU R.
• When her mother introduced her to falooda and chole batura, for Nalini, Impala Hotel on Anna Salai kindles fond memories of her childhood.
• A long-time resident of Valasaravakkam, Nalini has fond memories of an Udupi hotel on Kodambakkam High Road.

In practice, an old photograph of Buhari Hotel on Anna Salai Photo Credit: RAGU R.

Veteran actor Nalini Nair, a familiar face for television audiences, was born and raised in Chennai. She entered the Tamil film industry with Raanuva Veeran (1981) and went on to create a mark in Telugu, Kannada and Malayalam films as well. After a hiatus from acting since 1988, Nalini ventured into television with Krishna Daasi in 2000. There has been no looking back since.

Notably, the 62-year-old actor, who is busy shooting for television serials from 7 am until late evening, never leaves home without her trusty tiffin carrier, packed with home-cooked meals. "I generally avoid outside food these days, especially when I am at the shooting location. I normally prefer to eat idlis for dinner, and that too by 7 pm, " notes Nalini.

When her mother introduced her to falooda and chole batura, for Nalini, Impala Hotel on Anna Salai kindles fond memories of her childhood. Photo Credit: Special Arrangement.

In practice, a long-time resident of Valasaravakkam, Nalini has fond memories of an Udupi hotel on Kodambakkam High Road. It she frequented with her siblings. "My siblings and I applied to love the idlis at this Udupi hotel. For two idlis, we would literally drink a litre of sambar, " she chuckles. Her family's celebratory meals in the 1970s and '80s often meant a visit to Impala Hotel, Anna Salai. "It was here that my Amma introduced us to chole bhatura and falooda for the first time. The taste and the experience are etched in my memory, " she recalls. Sadly this restaurant no longer exists.

When it comes to cooking, Nalini's signature dishes are Kerala-style fish curry and fish fry, both of which her son and daughter eagerly look forward to. At home, it is a tradition to create idli with d and mutton chukka for Sunday breakfast.

These days, her favourite spot for idli, dosa and sambar is any branch of Geetham. For non-vegetarian food, she always prefers to order from New Andhra Meals Hotel in Valasaravakkam. "I especially love their Gongura Chicken. When it is on their menu, I will obtain a call from the owner, " she states. "These days, I rarely eat out, except when my son and daughter take me out for dinner. Unlike me, they prefer Japanese or Korean food. Lately, I enjoyed the taste of ramen. It suited my palate." Nassar's Madras, one plate at a time.

Actor Nassar, who created his debut with Kalyana Agathigal in 1985 and rose to fame with his role as a police officer in Mani Ratnam's Nayakan (1987), has spent much of his life in Chennai.

As a pre-teen, Nassar would travel to Chennai from Chengalpattu with his father, Mehaboob Basha. This person worked in jewellery polishing. He would create a monthly trip to Parry's Corner to purchase some of the chemicals he needed for his work. I applied to look forward to these trips as I was completely fascinated by the city.

Nasser notes his heart still goes back to the days when he relished slices of bread dipped in Aavin flavoured milk Photo Credit: Special Arrangement.

"During those visits, my father would take me to Kamadhenu Supermarket in Teynampet, on Anna Salai, where he would purchase me bun-butter-jam and tea. That taste still lingers in my memory." During his PUC days, Nassar's favourite haunt was Kuralagam in Parry's Corner. "It was a mall of sorts for youngsters like us and a great place to hang out. I applied to drink bottled pathaneer (palm nectar) from Khadi Kraft and have cone ice cream. It was a rare sight in the city in those days."

His working life in Chennai additionally introduced him to foods he had never tasted before. Nassar joined Taj Coromandel as a waiter and worked there from 1979 to 1982, years he recalls with nostalgia. "It was during this time that I tasted cheese for the first time. I additionally secured caught red-handed tasting Hungarian goulash soup without permission."

During his film institute days, nevertheless, food was more concerning sustenance than indulgence. Aavin flavoured milk and Modern bread became his breakfast. "I would have slices of Modern bread dipped in flavoured milk for breakfast. It would keep me going for hours. Even after I took the train and reached Chengalpattu, I would not feel hungry. Aavin flavoured milk is still my favourite."

Nassar additionally remembers a administration scheme that supported residents like him obtain an affordable meal when capital was tight. "Not many in Chennai today may be aware that there was once a government scheme to protect ordinary citizens from rising food prices, " he notes, referring to Janata Sappadu. "I have eaten this meal, which was quite good. It came with rice, sambar, rasam, kootu and poriyal. When I was looking for a job and trying to find opportunities in films, this meal supported me secure by."

Food choices in the city have changed considerably, he notes. "Today, ghee roast is such a common item, but in those days, I mostly ate set dosa with vada curry as it was filling and less expensive than a ghee roast." He additionally remembers the Burmese mohinga sold near Beach Station. "I applied to love the Burmese mohinga sold there. I even took my wife, Kameela, to this stall a couple of times."

Another favourite during their dating days was the rooftop eatery on the third floor of Khadi Bhavan on Anna Salai. "After having tiffin there, we would climb down and drink sukku coffee sold on the ground floor. The canteen is no longer in existence, but I miss it dearly."

Woodlands Drive-in is another vanished Chennai landmark that Nassar remembers fondly. "For many aspiring artists from various fields, it was a meeting place where lively conversations would go on for hours." He additionally recalls how biryani, now available on almost every street, was once a luxury. "During the 1980s and 1990s, biryani was not as common as it is today. Back then, there were places like Buhari and Bilal on Anna Salai, and Café Amin in Royapettah."

For vegetarian food, he applied to visit Thaligai restaurant in Mylapore. "Sadly, that is no longer in existence."

Today, his sons are the ones who suggest restaurants when the family eats out. Their favourite is Bask in Alwarpet, and the family additionally tries Korean and Japanese restaurants around the city. "Recently, we visited a mandi restaurant, which all of us enjoyed."

But despite Chennai's expanding food landscape, Nassar's palate still takes him back to another time. "Despite all these food experiences, my heart still leads me back to the Burmese food sold on pushcarts and Aavin flavoured milk." Of farms, food and Chennai: Pasupathy's story.

After making his Tamil film debut as Kothala Thevar in Kamal Haasan's Virumaandi, Pasupathy established himself as an actor of remarkable range and depth. With a solid grounding in theatre, having trained at Koothu-p-Pattarai under the guidance of Na Muthuswamy, he has always been discerning concerning the roles he takes on.

Yet, away from the sets and the characters he inhabits on screen, Pasupathy's life is rooted in a far quieter world. In 2010, he moved with his family to a five-acre farm in Melmaligaipattu village in Tiruvallur district, where he is actively involved in agriculture along with his wife, Surya.

"Life on a farm is peaceful, but agriculture is sheer hard work and immensely satisfying. Our dogs, cows, cats and crows all coexist in harmony with us. In fact, our hens lay their eggs atop a tree, and we have to go searching for them. One of the crows, whom my wife has named 'Gaanapathy', even tries to hide things in my beard. At the farm, everyone is free-spirited, " he notes.

Pasupathy enjoying his favorite meal at Pumpkin Tales, Alwarpet. Photo Credit: Special Arrangement.

For context, the farm has additionally become a space for the family to learn and explore together. Surya, who is a vegetarian while Pasupathy occasionally prefers non-vegetarian food, notes they even have two kitchens at their farmhouse.

"I love preparing meen kuzhambu, and I learnt the nuances of making it from my grandmother. At the farm, one of our favourite family activities is foraging. My mother-in-law taught us how to identify different herbs and edible greens, and today, both of us are quite adept at it, " notes Pasupathy. "We have planted morning glory, among a number of other varieties of greens. Pasupathy particularly likes morning glory. It our farm workers refer to as 'sir keerai', " adds Surya.

Pasupathy is additionally actively involved in home-schooling their daughter, Aaranya, along with his wife. His weekly trips to Chennai are often dictated by family commitments – taking his daughter to her Silambam classes, attending medical consultations or participating in events. And, inevitably, a visit to the city additionally means revisiting some of his favourite food spots.

"Whenever we come to the city, I create it a point to visit Pumpkin Tales. I have been doing this ever since the restaurant opened. The herb-roasted chicken with mushroom sauce is my favourite here. At my request, they additionally prepare a Singapore-style laksa with prawns, even though it is not on the menu., " he states.

"Yet another favourite spot I never fail to visit when I am in Chennai is Pattukottai Kamatchi Mess in T Nagar. It is owned by a friend of mine, and, in my opinion, it is the only restaurant that has perfected karuvadu thokku. Just spread piping-hot rice on a banana leaf, add a generous blob of the karuvadu thokku, mix it well and relish it. Nowhere else have I tasted a preparation quite like this, " he notes.

His relationship with Chennai, nevertheless, goes beyond its restaurants. When in the city, Pasupathy stays at his home in Polichalur, a locality situated right behind the airport. The neighbourhood holds memories from his younger days.

"As a teenager, watching aircraft fly so close overhead was such a thrilling experience. What was once a quaint, quiet locality has changed completely, with apartments and heavy traffic taking over. I applied to cycle to school in Pallavaram, and I really miss riding a bicycle these days, " he recalls.

At present getting ready for the upcoming shooting schedule for Sarpatta Part 2, the actor continues to move between the demands of cinema and the rhythms of farm life. Somewhere between film sets, Chennai's familiar eateries and the five acres of land he calls home, Pasupathy seems to have discovered his own rhythm – one that keeps him grounded in the life he has chosen.

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