It took Sasha Goenka two years to bring Pique, South Mumbai’s newest wine bar, to life in the Horniman Circle precinct. The idea is simple but timely: democratise wine drinking and recreate the easy, convivial charm of a European neighbourhood bistro.
“Whether it’s cafés, beer halls or cocktail bars, they’ve all become third spaces for people today,” states Sasha. This person has studied at Le Condon Blue and has a WSET Level 3 certification in wines. In a previous stint, she also assisted to launch Late Checkout bar in Mumbai. “Wine hasn’t really been part of that conversation, and I want Pique to bring people together over a good glass.”
Pique has a European charm about it | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Pique was originally meant to open in Bandra, but when the Horniman Circle space became available, Sasha could not pass it up. Surrounded by heritage buildings and old-world architecture, the neighbourhood naturally lends itself to the European wine bar experience she had envisioned.
Pique’s wine programme will change every two months | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
The space is surprisingly expansive for a wine bar. Spread across two levels, it can accommodate an estimated 80–90 guests. While a silent projector loops artsy visuals and Charlie Chaplin films, the interiors pair wood and metal accents with vintage European posters and pop-culture references. A staircase lined with wine corks connects the two levels, adding a playful touch.
Window-facing stools invite guests to settle in with a laptop and a glass of wine. It is an ambitious idea, and only time will tell whether it catches on. Regular music nights are also planned as the venue builds its community.
What sets it apart
Pique’s biggest draw is its rotating wine programme. It changes every two months. Diners can choose from 12 wines by the glass and 24 by the bottle. To make wine more approachable, the list gives as much importance to Indian labels as international ones. There isn’t a dedicated sommelier yet, but Sasha says a few elements of the concept are still evolving.
A partnership with Nashik’s Vallonne Vineyards gives Pique access to some distinctive pours. The Vallonne Orange, a savoury, fruit-forward orange wine, is a standout for anyone looking to venture beyond the usual reds, whites and sparkling wines.
The opening wine list also includes bottles such as Fratelli Sette from India, Portugal’s Quinta de Fontal Florão, Greece’s Mega Spileo and Spain’s Albamar, prized for its saline, citrus-forward profile.
It’s a hit or a miss with the food | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Although wine takes centre stage, the cocktail list is worth exploring. While the Wicked Martini lets smoked olives and capers shine, the Pizza-cante cleverly incorporates pizza flavours into a picante with Chenin Blanc. The Pique Spritz, made with Aperol, grapefruit and orange cordial, house-made coffee liqueur and sparkling wine, should not work on paper, but somehow does.
The food leans heavily towards France, Spain and Italy, with the menu curated by Sasha and consultant chef and cheesemaker Aditya Raghavan, whose work spans Canada and India. After working on cheese farms in Canada, Aditya spent a decade consulting on dairy and cheese in India, including with The Farm in Chennai and Begum Victoria Cheese in Bengaluru. While several dishes sound promising, the execution remains inconsistent.
The spaghetti all’assassina was overly salty, and the house-made ciabatta struggled to hold together the Italian deli mortadella. A few other dishes were similarly inventive in concept but less convincing on the plate.
Food at Pique | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Fortunately, there are highlights. The ‘faux’ gras, made with mushrooms, cashews, crostini and a house-made compote, is delicious. While the patatas bravas is among the menu’s strongest dishes, the seabass with vierge sauce, green beans, tomatoes and toasted almonds is beautifully balanced.
A dessert that stood out is the parmesan cheesecake with sourdough crumb and red wine reduction. It pairs particularly well with Vietti moscato d’asti, an Italian Moscato with sweet, apricot notes that balance the cheesecake’s savoury richness.
Dessert | Photo Credit: Special arrangement
Pique arrives at the right time, with the right idea, in a city that is increasingly embracing wine. It should be an easy recommendation, yet it still feels like a restaurant finding its footing. Sasha, who recently completed a two-week stage at Bengaluru’s Wine in Progress, states the experience reinforced her belief that diners are ready for wine-led spaces.
Like a young wine, Pique is still finding its balance. Give it time, and it could become the neighbourhood wine bar Mumbai has long wanted.
A meal for two costs ₹2,500 with alcohol plus taxes
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